24 avril 2006

Les galapagos du pauvre

Je suis a Pisco, une petite ville de la cote sud a trois quatre heures de route de Lima. Je traine sur la place de l´eglise au milieu des enfants qui courent, des joueurs d´echecs et des vendeurs de churros. L´ambiance est netement plus tranquille qu´a Lima. A la tombee de la nuit, la ville devient de plus en plus animee. Spectacles de rue, multitude de vendeurs en tout genre, et une foule joyeuse qui fait l´aller-retour entre Jiron commercio et Plaza de Armas. Le lendemain matin, je pars en excursion pour les iles Ballestas, que certains appellent les Galapagos du pauvre. Pourtant je ne suis pas decu. Je n´ai jamais vu autant d´oiseaux de ma vie. Les roches et le ciel sont remplis de mouettes, cormorans, pelicans, et toute sorte d´especes dont j´ignore totalement le nom. On trouve aussi quelques pingoins, des otaries et des phoques. Notamment dans une des criques qui est envahie de ces animaux dont les hurlements resonnent contre la falaise. Impressionnant. Apres les iles, j´encahine avec le parc national de Parracas. D´un cote, le desert avec ses dunes, de l´autre, la mer et des falaises dignes d´Etretat, mais dans un climat nettement plus arride. Ici, il ne pleut pratiquement jamais. Evidemment le bus tombe en rade au milieu de nulle part. La batterie est morte. On essaye de pousser mais ca ne sert a rien. Impossible de redemarrer. Je suis habitue a ce genre de mesaventures. Ca ne m´etonne meme plus. Je crois meme que j´aime ca. On glande une bonne heure en attendant un autre bus. Je sympathise avec une anglaise et une americaine qui voyagent en Amerique du sud depuis plusieurs mois. Un peu plus tard, debarque un suisse qui a campe la tout seul la nuit derniere. Il a le vrai look du baroudeur, peau crame par le soleil, barde de deux semaines et petit sac a dos. Personne ne veut le prendre en stop pour retourner a Pisco. Faut dire qu´il n´y a pas grand monde ici. Du coup il se joint a nous. Il vient de Buenos Aeres et voyage depuis trois mois. Son truc c´est de tracer sur la carte une ligne qui traverse le continent. Ensuite il suit plus ou moins cet itineraire, ca l´oblige a passer par des coins paumes sans le moindre touriste. C´est plutot une bonne idee. Au cours de nos discussions on realise que chacun d´entre nous s´est deja fait vole son appareil photo. Ca doit etre la taxe touristique obligatoire. L´Anglaise s´est meme fait braquer avec un flingue a Panama. On est tous d´accord pour dire que l´Asie du sud est est beaucoup moins dangereuse, meme dans des endroits largement aussi pauvres. Une difference d´attitude assez surprenante. D´apres le suisse, c´est peut-etre parce que l´Amerique du sud est catholique, et non boudhiste. Ils peuvent faire ce qu´ils veulent, Dieu les pardonnera. J´aime bien cette idee.

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